The pruning of newly planted deciduous trees and shrubs should not be just a haircutting or random shearing. Prune objectively so as to develop a pleasing shape. This involves thinning of branches, particularly those forming weak narrow crotches and those that look weak and unproductive. Additional pruning, if needed, can consist of cutting back last year’s wood to strong side-buds, preferably those that will develop into outward spreading branches.
In planting, dig the hole deep and wide enough to take the roots without cramping. Place a layer of fertile topsoil at the bottom of the planting hole, place the plant on a mound of soil and then gradually fill the hole with good topsoil, firming it in well with the foot. Plant the tree or shrub slightly deeper than it was originally. Some people express concern about orientation of a tree or shrub; that is, replanting the tree so that the branches that developed north, cast, west or south are replanted in the same direction of the compass. This is not necessary, luckily, for if it were, nurserymen would be required to label each tree according to orientation, and what a job that would be!
Evergreens are sold balled and bur-lapped; the root system is contained within the original soil ball, held in place with burlap. Roots of evergreens are very subject to drying out. The purchaser of balled nursery stock should take every precaution not to break the ball of soil and roots. The ball should not be permitted to dry out.
Plant the same as for deciduous trees; do not remove the burlap. Place the evergreen in the hole and as soon as you are sure it is placed correctly, loosen the burlap and push it to the bottom of the planting hole; it does not have to be removed. Disturbing the soil ball after the burlap has been loosened may cause the soil to break resulting in injury or death of the tree. Fill the planting hole with topsoil and firm it well. Leave a little basin or depression around the base of the plant to aid in holding water. Water each plant thoroughly.
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